In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three main plans employed. You must be able to switch game plans almost instantly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you can manage, to barricade in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable tactic at the begining of the game. You can build the wall anywhere inbetween your 11-point and your 2-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your opponent tosses an early two and moves one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then toss a 5-5, you are able to play 6/1 six/one 8/3 eight/three. Your opponent is now in serious difficulty taking into account that they have two pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have two or higher pieces in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor is a position occupied by at least two of your pieces.) It would be played when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your chances. The strongest locations for anchors are near your opponent’s smaller points and also on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is critical for an effectual backgame: at the end of the day, there’s no point having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break apart this straight away, while your opponent is getting their checkers home, considering that you do not have other additional checkers to move! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up till your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a wonderful idea to attempt and get your opponent to hit them in this case!