In very general terms, there are 3 main game plans used. You need to be agile enough to hop between strategies quickly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of creating a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at least as deep as you might manage, to block in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most suitable procedure at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your 11-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your competitor rolls an early 2 and shifts one piece from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a 5-5, you are able to play six/one 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is then in serious dire straits considering that they have two checkers on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have two or higher anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point consisting of at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It needs to be used when you are significantly behind as it much improves your chances. The better areas for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is critical for a competent backgame: after all, there is no point having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break up this straight away, while your opponent is getting their pieces home, seeing that you do not have any other extra pieces to shift! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you can preserve your position until your competitor provides you a chance to hit, so it can be a wonderful idea to try and get your opponent to get them in this case!