In very simple terms, there are three main strategies employed. You need to be able to hop between game plans almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to manage, to block in your competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most adequate procedure at the begining of the game. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your challenger rolls an early 2 and shifts one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is now in serious calamity because they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your inside board!
The Backgame
This tactic is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor is a point occupied by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It should be employed when you are decidedly behind as it greatly improves your opportunities. The better areas for anchor spots are near your competitor’s smaller points and also on adjacent points or with one point separating them. Timing is important for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to dismantle this straight away, while your challenger is shifting their pieces home, owing to the fact that you do not have any other additional checkers to shift! In this situation, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position up till your opposer gives you a chance to hit, so it will be a good idea to attempt and get your opponent to get them in this case!